Tag: miniatures

A Review of Midgard Heroic Battles

Midgard Heroic Battles

I noticed last post that I was starting to mention aspects of Midgard Heroic Battles that I’d never really explained and felt that a review post for the game might be in order. Clearly if you’ve seen my other posts you’ll know this review will be a positive one, but I think it provides some useful information about the game for players that might be interested in picking it up.

What is Midgard Heroic Battles?

Midgard Heroic Battles (Midgard from now on!) is a set of rules for playing out battles in any setting that can be described as having the following characteristics:

  • Battles are fought mostly by ranked up regiments of close order fighters wielding spears/swords/axes/etc, supported by cavalry and skirmishers (and sometimes monsters/elephants!)
  • Shooting is helpful but not the primary way to win a battle.
  • Most importantly, leaders lead from the front. They are found where the melee is thickest, performing mighty deeds (or dying mighty deaths!) that will be sung of by the bards for aeons to come.

This covers quite the range of historical eras (roughly antiquity all the way to sometime in the Middle Ages when leaders decided to focus on strategy over feats of arms), but also covers a swathe of fantastical settings (Tolkien’s Middle Earth being a prime example).

In addition to this broad applicability setting-wise, Midgard also is a scale agnostic system that handles whatever your collection can throw at it. I achieves this through its adaptive measurement system (the spear throw) and flexible list building.

The spear throw

The spear throw (ST) is the basic unit of measure of the game. Pretty much everything in the game is measured in multiples of STs, for example units are always 1ST wide, cavalry move 2ST per move, short bows can fire arrows 3ST away etc. A ST does not have a fixed length; how long a ST is depends on the scale of the miniatures you use. For 28mm miniatures, the suggested ST is 12cm long (which lets you fit 8-10 miniatures on your 1ST wide base), while for smaller miniatures (say 15mm or less) the suggestion is to use an 8cm ST. This is a purely subjective choice, driven primarily by how you like your units to look on the tabletop. Want wider units? Use a larger ST.

By using this abstract measure, the rules do something quite clever, which is to provide ranges for all kinds of things in the game while never committing to a fixed measure. No need to do some on the fly measurement conversions (“this bow shoots 20 inches at 28mm, we’re playing at 15mm so it should shoot 10.71 inches!”), just get/make a measuring stick of your chosen ST and you can measure everything you need for the scale you’re playing at.

Left is an 8cm spear throw base and measuring stick, right is a 12cm spear throw base and measuring stick. These very stylish measuring sticks are STLs that can be purchased from the TooFatLardies site.

Here is the first hint of what the game is trying (and therefore not trying) for: this is a game that is not aiming to be particularly suitable for random pickup games at a club or say for playing tournaments. It is important that both sides in a game use the same ST length. Unlike in a Warhammer-style ruleset which mandates all aspects of the game and therefore provides a common standard for all gamers to align to, Midgard requires pre-agreement on the ST the game will be played at. Considering the ST affects the bases of all the units on both sides, that is not an inconsiderable hobby hurdle to overcome if one gamer has based their army on 8cm bases and the other on 12cm.

The List-building

Midgard provides a set of generic profiles (such as Heavy Infantry, Skirmishers, Light Cavalry, etc.) which can be modified by changing their equipment (e.g. adding or removing armour), and the addition of traits which modify the behaviour of the units (e.g. impetuous can force the unit to charge).

Much like STs this list building is a cooperative activity and not done in a vacuum. The maximum armour for most units is 4, which might represent a mail and a shield for a dark ages game, or full plate armour in a later medieval game. What’s important here is that relative to each other, both sides in a game are consistent. This again indicates tournament play is not the point of Midgard, it would be hard to coordinate a room full of players to achieve this.

What you get as a result is an extremely flexible list building system that is capable of representing all kinds of troops, whether historical or fantastical. I’ve been able to create fun and evocative profiles for my Middle-Earth miniatures, my Warhammer miniatures, and my emerging Punic Wars collection so far.

The author provides a number of lists in the back of the rulebook, as well as many more on his website https://mogsymakes.net/resources-for-midgard-heroic-battles/ alongside some great list builders that make putting armies together a breeze.

As a result of the above, Midgard feels more like a framework for creating games than a simple self-contained game. While it is possible to just get the models required to field some of the armies in the back of the book and play a game as is, the real power of the game in my opinion is to provide an easy way to get your collection on the table and playing fun games with it.

Midgard Gameplay

“This flexibility is nice, but once I have chosen my ST and made my army lists, what’s the actual game like?”

If you have War of the Ring trays around, they are perfect for Midgard.

The answer is Midgard is a very fun rank and flank ruleset, that is fast to play, easy to pick up, but hard to master. In its pages you’ll find rules for the usual array of restricted ranked unit movement rules (a staple of the genre), shooting and combat. All of these are quite streamlined compared to what I’m used to from Warhammer and other such systems. Generally all combat/shooting die rolls require you to get a 5 or above (no complex comparison tables here), and modifiers halve the size of your dice pool rather than modify the target number. This makes for some rather quick combat resolution, and keeps the game going.

The only other die roll to remember is the command die roll, which is used for situations where a unit may not do what it is told (e.g. holding still instead of pursuing a fleeing unit), similar to leadership tests in Warhammer. Just as combat rolls, this is a set number and never changes (again speeding things up!).

Heroes matter greatly in the game, leading your troops and assisting them by using a resource called mighty deeds. Heroes get these according to their level and can spend said deeds on making units re-roll failed command tests, get extra attacks, cast spells, and most shamefully to keep themselves safe.

Framing all these rules is the reputation system. This pool of tokens represents the morale of the army, and grows with the acts of bravery of heroes and shrinks when losing units or when heroes bring dishonour upon themselves. If your reputation is at or below zero at the end of the turn, your army breaks and you lose the game.

The main advantage of the reputation system is that it lets you use your coolest cups for their true purpose: gaming.

This resource drives the behaviour of the players in a really fun way: as their reputation drops, players have no choice but to dive in and try to regain the upper hand through desperate actions with their heroes. This is magnified when an army’s reputation drops to zero during a turn, as they have until the end of the turn to get it back above zero, which makes for some extremely fun (and cinematic!) moments where heroes lead wild charges in the forlorn hope of reinvigorating their side.

Who Is Midgard For?

As highlighted above, Midgard is not a tournament game, and is probably not particularly well suited to a pickup game scenario against unknown opponents at a club or other. What Midgard excels at is creating fun narrative games where the two sides and a scenario are created specifically for those games. This is really good for convention games where the game is set up and the players join in, and I’ve found it excellent for games with my game group, where I’ve set up a scenario for two forces and invited my friends over to play it out.

I’m not sure I would have known what to do with Midgard 10 or so years ago, as I was very much in the playing tournaments and pickup games paradigm, with armies specifically created for an edition of a game, ready to play against anyone with an army for the matching system. In some ways that’s an easier way to go as there is no need to coordinate anything for a game (beyond a time and a place), everyone is following the same set of rules and can just show up with their legal army. If that’s how you want to do most of your gaming then Midgard might not be for you.

The games look great too!

I have much less time for gaming these days and find that what I really want to do when I do is to get a group of friends together and play a big fun game. Midgard helps me do that in quite a few ways. First, it’s easy to play – I know that friends that aren’t regular wargamers will have an easy time picking it up (recently one of said non-wargaming friends corrected me on the rules multiple times during a game!). This really broadens the pool of players, and I’d recommend Midgard for teaching new players a wargame. Second, while building lists sounds like a lot of work, I think building lists for Midgard is much faster and easier than building lists for Warhammer – even with the need to keep both sides somewhat consistent. Third, the game is fast to play. The rules stay out of the way of the action, and games with hundreds of models can take as little as a few hours to play through. Finally, the game lets me use my whole miniatures collection. While I have some armies that are legal armies in other systems, I have some that are too small or out of date and haven’t seen play in many years. Midgard with its flexible list building system has had me scrounging through my cases (which has been a great trip down memory lane), thinking up scenarios for all kinds of settings.

If the above sounds like a good time then I heartily recommend you check out Midgard. It’s likely to be the most played game by far in my group this year, and I look forward to finding out what else we can do with it.

Playing Warhammer with Midgard Heroic Battles

Midgard Heroic Battles, Warhammer: The Old World

I’ve been talking a decent amount about Midgard Heroic Battles over the last few posts, and that’s unlikely to change as I’ve been thoroughly enjoying the game. Part of what’s made it fun for me has been the flexibility and general simplicity of the ruleset. It’s meant that for the last few weeks, units that I haven’t put on the battlefield for years have been taking part in some really fun games.

While most games we’ve played so far have been Lord of the Rings themed, we’ve been wondering if the rules would work well for games in the Warhammer setting. While we enjoy the new Warhammer the Old World rules, they’re quite complex and don’t necessarily make for a beginner friendly game. We have a few friends in our gaming group that are not wargamers (board games and roleplaying games are their usual fare), and haven’t really been interested in playing Warhammer before. They have however been enjoying the games of Midgard we’ve been playing, and have been happy to play more, which is great news for me!

This week I had a few of those friends over and we played a big game involving four armies: a loose alliance of Skaven and Undead against Dwarves and Bretonnians. Two of the players were wargaming novices, one is relatively new, and one is an enfranchised wargamer. I was running the game as a games master. Despite the lack of experience of most of the players, and the relatively large size of the game, we comfortably got through the game in an evening which is a testament to the rules.

The scenario I set up was as follows: the Skaven and Undead armies needed to hold onto a warpstone meteor while the Dwarf/Bretonnian alliance needed to get them clear of it. To spice things up some, I placed four isolated trees on the board (i.e. not on the forest bases), and after turn one revealed them to actually be treemen who were generally opposed to the idea of big battles being fought in their forests and went after whatever unit was closest. Despite this extra chaos the game was extremely close and ended with both sides within a single reputation point of each other (reputation tracks your force morale, if it’s at or below 0 at the end of the turn, you lose the game). The Skaven/Undead forces won the day, but it really could have gone either way.

Overall, the game was a success I’d say, all the players enjoyed themselves, the game was fun, and it generally felt like playing Warhammer without the big rules overhead. What was missing however was some of that Warhammer atmosphere that is generated by things such as wizards miscasting and Skaven wargear blowing up. Midgard as a low-fantasy/historical wargame does not really cater for this out of the box, but it is easy enough to add some house rules to capture this, and I’ll be doing that going forwards.

After this successful foray into playing Warhammer with Midgard, I’ve been excited about the possibilities. As I said in the opener, Midgard is a very flexible game system, and looks to be able to cater for some of the more esoteric things that can be found in the Warhammer setting and are not catered for in the normal Warhammer rules. With that in mind I’ve been reading through the late 80s/early 90s Realm of Chaos books which are probably about as esoteric as Warhammer gets (I’m sure I’ll be shown something more esoteric in the comments!), and having a great time imagining what that could look like in a game of Midgard.

Needless to say some of this energy was redirected towards miniature painting, and in this case towards this Chaos Sorcerer that I found in a case while scrounging for Chaos models for my Midgard/Realm of Chaos plans.

This is a really cool model that was released for Games Day 2010, and that I bought back then. It’s therefore been undercoated in a case for 15 years, and I was well past time I got some paint on him!

I had some fun with the skin (especially the parts with the extra limbs!). I’ve been trying to work on painting darker skin tones and I’d picked up some of the Duncan Rhodes/Two Thin Coats paints made for this purpose (Druid Flesh and Bard Skin). I really like how they worked, although I did feel they needed a touch of extra warmth so I glazed some Citadel Contrast Wyldwood over the top which did the trick.

The model has a lot of nice little details on it which were great fun to paint, the small hand holding the key to the book being my favourite.

I’m sure we’ll see this Sorcerer lead a Midgard contingent at some stage!

Making Bases for Midgard Heroic Battles

Midgard Heroic Battles

I’ve been really enjoying Midgard Heroic Battles as you might have been able to tell from my last few posts. While I’ve been working on my Epic scale Punic War armies specifically for the game, I’ve really enjoyed the opportunity it has given me to break out some older models I’ve had painted for a long time that have not hit the gaming table in almost just as long. So far these models have mostly been Lord of the Rings/Middle Earth models, as they fit nicely in the War of the Ring movement trays that work quite well for Midgard. I’ve been wanting to use the rules to play with Warhammer models and historical models however, and those do not (generally) work with the War of the Ring trays.

The opportunity to remedy this problem came in an unusual form, when a large frame containing a cool fantasy map came off the wall and smashed itself on the ground. The frame itself was wrecked, and so was the glass, but the MDF backing on it was mostly OK (the map also survived unscathed!). This meant I had a mostly nice sheet of 60x90cm 3mm MDF on my hands, and realised it would be a good solution to my Midgard basing issue.

Midgard requires a common frontage for all units, but is pretty flexible on depth for models of greater size. This frontage is recommended to be 12cm for 28mm scale miniatures (you can change this, one of the really cool things that makes the game scale agnostic – for example my Punic Wars models are on 8cm bases), and the default depth is half the frontage. Most infantry units should fit on 12x6cm bases, while units with larger footprints should increase the depth (e.g. calvalry might be on 12x10cm, large monsters on 12x12cm etc.).

The good news for me is that 60 is nicely divisible by 12 and 90 by six, so I was able to plot a 12x6cm grid on my frame backing. I of course wasn’t able to fully utilise the board, as the hardware is anchored there (not that strongly clearly, you can see bottom left the spot where the other loop broke off leading to my frame mishap in the first place!). I used the marked bases with hardware on them to extend the 6cm depth of some bases to 10cm. In other areas you can see where I turned four 12×6 bases into three 12×8, and where I combined 2 12×6 bases into one 12×12 base. This gave me a nice spread off sizes, and more bases (I hope) than I could ever use!

I usually use a jigsaw for MDF, but these needed to be pretty straight cuts and I didn’t think I could manage them freehand with the jigsaw. I went back and forth considering a few other methods for cutting these, but I ended up settling on using a long metal ruler and a box cutter. I read online that you can cut through 3mm MDF most of the way with the cutter, then snap the board along the cut, much like you would with plasticard. That worked pretty well, giving mostly clean edges apart from the snapped section. That was easy enough to trim away though so in general I think this is a pretty good method. Note that MDF dust is nasty stuff so wear a mask whenever cutting or sanding it – have a look at Guru Pig’s thoughtful comment below for more detail. Left-to-right above you can see the stacks of 12-10-8-6cm deep bases.

I glued sand on the bases and painted them with a series of dry brushes of successively lighter brown tones (raw umber, yellow ochre, yellow ochre with a touch of white), followed by some light flocking with green and dry static grass around the rims where model bases would most likely not sit. Painting that many was a bit tedious I have to say, but the results are hopefully worth it! Let’s take a look at them in action.

In the photo above we have on the left the 12x8cm base – good for larger infantry such as these dryads, on the right the 12x6cm regular infantry tray, which comfortably fits eight 25mm square based infantry.

Left is the 12x12cm tray, big enough to fit this Verminlord, and right is the 12x10cm tray, good for cavalry models.

I painted and flocked the trays so they wouldn’t look too out of place on either of the mats I use for gaming the most, i.e. the green field and the desert you see in the photo above.

The Lord of the Rings miniatures also work fine on these, the cavalry bases with four models look better than the two you get on the War of the Rings bases.

Overall, these bases are pretty plain, and I think for armies that I build specifically for Midgard I’d like to use the opportunity to make proper scenic bases. These however have the advantage of being very flexible and letting me field a lot of existing armies in fun games of Midgard. I’m very much looking forward to that.

Carthaginian Infantry

Hail Caesar, Midgard Heroic Battles

The Epic scale painting continues, this time with my first blocks of ranked infantry: Carthaginian infantry.

As with all my models for this project, these are Warlord’s Epic Scale Punic Wars range for their Hail Caesar game. As I mentioned in the last few posts however I’m not basing these on Warlord’s bases, which are 60x20mm but on my own 3D printed bases which are 80x40mm and are more suited to the Midgard game.

As a result of the larger bases I decided to stick down 3 strips per base rather than the two that fit on the Warlord bases. I quite like the look of the 3 strips together, and therefore am happy with the decision. I also quite like the look of the separation I get between blocks even when the bases are touching as the bases are wider than the strips. This will be accentuated for the Romans when I get to them as they are modelled to fit 3 ranks on the Warlord bases (so roughly the same footprint of 2 strips of the more normally ranked infantry).

Painting-wise there were a few things I had to do differently to the skirmishing troops. First of all, these are not single models, but a full strip of 10 overlapping models, which presents advantages (definitely faster than painting 10 individual models!), and adds some tricky-ness for basing as the basing material is added after the strips are glued down and I had to veeery carefully get basing paste between the strips (a roughly 5mm gap) after gluing them down.

The skin was painted exactly as per the Numidians from the past post, that is with AK Tan Earth. The shields are a mix of AK Ivory, Vallejo Game Heavy Goldbrown and Vallejo Game Heavy Violet. The bronze is Scale75 Necrogold, and the silver Scale75 Black Metal, both my go to colours for those. As for the other models I went for an all over wash of Army Painter Soft Tone followed by a highlight of the basecoat colour.

Overall I really like the ranked look you get from these models, especially with the overlapping shields. These were slightly more tedious to paint than the skirmishers, but again I painted 60 models in the time I painted 20 skirmishers so I suppose I can’t complain.

Here they are amongst the other bases I painted so far. I really like the distinction between skirmishers and ranked infantry you get at this scale. I’ve made a small dent in the Carthaginian Division set now, with roughly a third of the units painted (the rest is mostly a lot of Gauls and Iberians!).

In other news, I just got a notification that today marks five years since my first post which is quite something. I don’t think at the time I had any idea I’d go this long, so thanks a lot to all of you for reading the blog, it does keep me motivated to see comments and views on my posts! Here’s to 5+ more!

Numidian Allies

Hail Caesar, Midgard Heroic Battles

Back with a small update this week; two more bases for my Punic Wars project. As the title indicates these are Numidians, a base of cavalry and a base of javelin skirmishers.

Much like the slingers last week, these were fun and fast to paint. I went for the classic cowhide shields on these, although I have no idea how historical it may be. I’ve always loved the look!

Painting-wise, the strategy was much as it was for the first unit last week (i.e. basecoat, wash, highlight with basecoat), but with some different colours. The white cloth and white fur is AK Ivory, the skin is AK Tan Earth, the wooden areas (spears/shields) are basecoated in Vallejo English Uniform, and highlighted with 50/50 English Uniform and Vallejo German Camo Beige WW2.

The horses and the spots on the shield used contrast paints. As I undercoated my models with a leather brown, I put the contrasts directly on that rather than the more usually recommended white/cream colour. I quite like the look of contrast paints over browns, I think they look more natural than over whites. The reddish-brown horses are done using Gore-Grunta Fur Contrast, the brown horses using Wildwood Contrast and the black horses as well as the manes/tails of all the others using Black Templar Contrast. I think that gives a pretty good result at this scale, and I’ll happily do the rest of the horses I have to paint for this project (which is quite a few horses) this way.

Both of these sets of models are from the Carthaginian Division set of the Hail Caesar Epic Battles range. I have two more Numidian bases, this time archers from the Allied Division set so these aren’t the last Numidians you’ll see for this project.

So far I’ve only done loosely ordered troops so I might try my hand at some close order troops next. We’ll see where inspiration strikes!

Back to the Punic Wars!

Hail Caesar, Midgard Heroic Battles

My historical wargaming kick is still going strong (I’ll get back to you Fantasy gaming I promise!), and I’ve put some birthday vouchers to good use, picking up some models I’ve been eyeing off since they were released last year: Warlord Games’ Punic War “epic scale” range.

I you’ve been keeping an eye on this blog for a while you might remember my foray into Republican Romans back in 2021. This was in 28mm scale, which is home for me scale wise (well that and the associated 25, and 32mm scales), but while I enjoyed painting the models I was always troubled by the fact that to get some of the formations in the historical record (e.g. the famed Triplex Acies for the romans, with its triple row of supporting infantry blocks) I would need a lot of space on the game board (not to mention crazy amounts of miniatures!). That took the wind out of my sails for this project and the models have sat unprogressed for a long time. When I saw the Warlord announcement last year I knew this was the way forward, a smaller scale letting me have the number of units to play games with some semblance of the historical formations. This doesn’t solve my unused miniatures problem for my 28mm romans however, and the plan there is to repurpose them for smaller scale games in the Caesarean invasion of Gaul which is something else I’d like to wargame.

Another tricky aspect of the era was finding rules that captured the kind of gaming that I’d like to do for the period. That was resolved when I discovered Midgard last month, the game is fun and simple to play and has some great rules to reward the in depth formations the Roman’s adopted. In fact the author has published some army lists for the Punic wars specifically, making using Midgard for the period very easy.

Armed with some rules and a model range I plunged in and picked up the Roman/Carthaginian/Allied division boxes (and most importantly the elephant set) from Warlord, which gave me more than enough models to play a large game of Midgard.

The models come with bases for Hail Caesar, which aren’t quite right for Midgard where units are more standalone. So I decided to make my own bases, larger than the Hail Caesar bases, and put more models on each. The bases are of an 8cm frontage, 4cm deep for infantry and 5.5cm deep for cavalry. I modelled these and 3d printed them. If you’re interested in the files I put them up on Cults3D as a free download.

That’s enough context, onto the models! The models are Warlord’s epic scale which seems to be around 14mm so half size from what I’m used to. The detail is really quite good given the size and the models took washes really well which is very helpful. I painted this base of gallic slingers as a test unit to try out a few things: what washes work well at the scale, and what basing scheme I was going to go with. Wash wise, I was worried that my usual go-to Agrax Earthade might be a bit much (too dark/strong) for the scale so I looked for something lighter. I settled on Army Painter’s Soft Tone wash, which I think worked really nicely.

The process I used is as follows: I airbrushed some leather brown all over the models to get a nice brown base to work with, which would work for any leather items (belts, shoes, slings), and let me focus on painting cloth, shields and skin. I then basecoated these areas in nice bright colours (probably inspired by my reading and re-reading of Asterix comics as a kid!), basecoated the skin in AK Beige Red, and gave the models an all over wash of Soft Tone. Once that was dry I gave the skin areas a second wash of Citadel Reikland Fleshshade (somewhat diluted) to get some red into the skin. I then used the basecoat colours to highlight the models back up. The hair was then painted, basecoating it with an off-white, and using GW contrasts for colour (Aggaroth Dunes for the blonde hair, and Gore Grunta Fur for the reddish hair). Nice and quick!

For the basing I wanted to aim for a generic Mediterranean look, which could work for Summery Italy as well as the North African coast. To that end I used and AK texture paint called Sandy Desert, and while it was wet sprinkled on a couple of Woodland Scenics foams and some old GW sand mix I had lying around. The base rim is Vallejo Russian Uniform WW2. Overall I’m happy with the look, it’s probably a bit too deserty for Italy if I’m being honest, but hopefully close enough that suspending disbelief is easy enough!

Cold Forests

Bolt Action, Chain of Command, Terrain

In what is the final post of my holiday-driven burst of activity we have quite a few trees!

As I’ve mentioned a few times in the last few posts, I’m planning on running a game of Chain of Command for some friends in the coming weeks, and the setting is the Eastern Front, sometime in winter 1944. Having no winter terrain was going to make that a bit difficult, so I decided to paint up a few pieces to populate the table. The main thing I wanted was to have some nice pine forests, so I set about finding some suitable trees.

The trees you see above were cheap ones from Amazon which came in big batches with some variety in sizes which was quite nice. 60 of them cost me just below $60 (Australian dollars that is!) which seemed like a nice rate. They are a basic shaped and flocked bottlebrush style pine trees, nothing fancy but they do the trick. The flock was not glued on great but I knew I was going to spray them with varnish to get some snow on there too so was not too worried. The “trunks” of the trees were bare wire twists so I needed to make some holders for them, to make the trees more realistic and allow them to be removed for gaming and storage purposes.

I made a very rough trunk shape in tinkercad and 3D printed the 60 I needed. I then glued them down in a semi-random pattern to some MDF bases I cut out of the back of an old bookshelf (never throw anything away!), and was ready for basing.

I wanted a forest floor look but wanted to stay away from a leafy look as befits a pine forest. As a result while I went my usual route of blending up some leaf litter as I did for these citadel woods and for my endor table I stayed away from soft leaves (european style!) and went for dried eucalyptus leaves which are much harder and blend down to a powder. That mixed with small twigs gave a nice finish that I think does a decent job of impersonating dropped branches and bark at the scale.

To finish the look I added some green foam from woodland scenics to represent small vegetation on the forest floor. I tried adding some dark and some dry static grass to look like dropped needles, but I don’t think they’re very visible. To top it off I sprinkled some snow flock over the trees and bases (over wet hairspray), then sealed the lot with some spray varnish.

Keeping the trees removable is quite practical for gaming purposes, especially for those game systems that treat forests slightly abstractly as an area of terrain rather than individual trees.

The trees make up most of the terrain I needed ready for this game as you can see from the layout I set up above. You get a sneak preview of the remainder of the terrain which is the large house in the left corner and the two small bunkers to the right.

You also get to see my attempts at repurposing my old Citadel grass mat, which has sat unused for years since I’ve move on to printed neoprene battlemats. It seemed a waste to not use it, so I decided to see if I could convert it for this cold setting. I hit it with patches of brown and white and then “frosted” it with a light pass of white spray paint to get that frozen grass look.

I wanted the table to have a frosty morning with some light snow look rather than a full on snow storm, hence the light use of snow flock on the forests and the light dusting of white on the mat. I’m hoping to communicate the cold through the mat and the tree stands only, allowing me to place terrain pieces I painted for my other settings over it and having them not look out of place. For example I’m planning on using the cobblestone road I painted for my Normandy games in this game as you can see above.

I hope you like the look of these, and I’ll be likely back onto my slower pace of posts as I head back to work next week!

Winter Germans

Bolt Action, Chain of Command

I’ve had some leave this week and have put it to good use by painting lots of models! I’ve now finished painting my Volksgrenadier platoon for Chain of Command (you saw the first section last post), as well as some extra firepower in the form of a Panther tank.

The platoon is made up of a command section, two assault sections (armed with STG44 assault rifles), and an LMG section (split into two LMG teams).

The command section, with an officer and four riflemen. I also painted up a medic model I had in cold weather gear, he’s not part of the command section but can be selected as a support in game.
The second assault section. You might have seen the first one last post.
The LMG section. In game this operates as two teams, one for each LMG.

I described the painting method for the infantry last post so I won’t repeat it here. The process is very quick, and this was a good test for it. I batch painted all three new sections (and the medic) at once (21 models all up), painting each colour on each model in a row. I got them to the wash stage in a few hours on Sunday, and did all the highlights on Monday. Not a bad rate I think! They’re certainly not my finest work, but they look effective on the table which is always the primary purpose for army models.

Onto the tank! This is a Warlord Games/Italeri plastic kit, and as with all the ones of these I have put together over the years it is a relatively simple build, if a bit light on detail (for example the tools on the side are basically flat). These are meant to be gaming pieces over display models however, and they paint up nicely.

I decided to go for a winter scheme on the tank, and tried my hand at a white wash look. To achieve this I painted the normal late war German camo pattern (yellow base with dark red/brown and dark green patterns – you can see it under the somewhat transparent white), then followed that up with a coat of hairspray on which I lightly airbrushed some white.

If you’re not familiar with the old hairspray method you may be wondering what that’s all about. Effectively, the hairspray allows for some great chipping patterns by providing a water soluble layer under the coat of paint in need of chipping (the white paint in my case). This paint can then be rubbed away by using a wet brush (ideally with somewhat stiff bristles, a drybrush is great for this). The water disolves the hairspray under the paint, which causes the paint to drop off in nice patterns. The tank needs a good coat of varnish after that so that the unstable layer gets locked away an no more paint rubs off.

I then finished the model with the usual oil washes, with a mix of browns and dark grey colours. I also added spots of rust (also using oils) which I streaked downwards, mostly from the spare tracks. I then finished the tracks using pigments. This is a new thing for me, I usually douse tracks in mud but in this case I figured if the ground is frozen there would not be any mud around!

I now have all the models I need for a game of Chain of Command I’m planning on running for some friends soon. What’s missing now (and you may have noticed from the photos!) is some appropriate cold weather terrain. Next up on the painting table will be said terrain, I have most of what I need now, it’s just a matter of painting it.

A Busy Few Weeks!

Bolt Action, Chain of Command, Middle-Earth SBG, Midgard Heroic Battles, The Silver Bayonet

As the title suggested, I’ve been busy the last couple of weeks, with some painting and some gaming to discuss in this latest post.

The Gaming!

I have a regular games night with some friends which is usually spent playing role-playing games or board games. The last few of these we had to change the program as a couple of us couldn’t make it, and we decided to get some wargaming in.

For the first one of these I introduced the group to Silver Bayonet and we played through the fourth solo mission of the main rulebook with my British warband.

The scenario had the unit attempt to leave the wilderness after its encounters there in the past few missions, but finding their way home cut off by some bandits (role played by the French Imperial Guard unit I painted a few years back). I didn’t take very many photos as I was too busy running the game unfortunately, so no battle report for this mission. Playing the game was very last minute so I had to improvise some of the terrain as you can see in the photo above, with the river being represented by some shiny blue cloth, and the bridge is a section of a ruined church I used for WW2 games!

The game went very well, the two players were running the unit together while I was telling them the rules and taking the monster actions. They were much more aggressive than I usually play, but it paid off and they cleared the mission relatively easily. Both of them really enjoyed the game so that’s always a plus!

On the second week we decided to try out a new (to us!) ruleset for fantasy/historical battles: Midgard. Midgard is a game by James Morris (check out his blog, it’s very cool https://mogsymakes.net/blog/) which came out last year and covers quite a lot of ground. At its core, it’s a system for covering historical (and fantastical) battles where the heroic actions of army leaders can carry the day. This is suitable for covering periods all the way from antiquity to mid to late middle ages when commanders started running battles from a bit further back than the front lines. Midgard also caters for more mythological/fantastical battles, with rule for monsters and magic thrown in. I’ll be talking a lot more about Midgard in the future as it ticks a lot of boxes for me.

We decided to play the game with some Lord of the Rings armies, and I dusted off two of mine: my Cirith Ungol force, led by Shagrat and Gorbag to rival orc captains, and an amalgamation of Elves led by Legolas and Gildor Inglorion.

If you’re familiar with Games Workshop’s efforts in the Lord of the Rings space, you might recognise the trays they produced for the War of the Ring mass battle version of the game. As Midgard also uses trays they seemed like a great starting point. Midgard however requires all the unit base sizes to have the same frontage so I 3D designed and printed some adapters for the cavalry trays (which are narrower than the infantry trays) and for the monsters (who never had trays in the first place). As I did these adapters the day of the game I needed to go fast and decided to make them simple and to include a little joke – the elven script reads “One tray to adapt them all“.

The game was great fun even for a learning game, and everyone was very impressed with the rules. They are easy to pick up and the system puts pressure on heroes to go out and perform heroic acts in a way that leads to some excellent moments. I look forward to playing much more of the game.

The Painting

My painting table has had some form of WW2 models on it for quite a while now, as the build up of forces to get ready to play games of Chain of Command continues.

First up some British Paratroopers, with a Bren gunner and a 2-inch mortar team to bring my 6th Airborne up to strength.

Secondly we have the first unit of a new army (don’t I already have too many WW2 projects on the go? Yes, probably).

The models are from Warlord Games’ German Infantry (Winter) set, that I’ve built up as Volksgrenadiers for use in late war games on the Eastern Front or the Ardennes. I have a full platoon of these to paint for a game I’m planning soon, so this is just the tip of the iceberg.

Painting-wise, these were quite straightforward as the greatcoats really simplify the models. I started with an all over airbrush of Fieldgrey, then got painting in the details. The process is my usual easy army painting one, with basecoat, wash, then highlight back up with the basecoat colour. The exception is the skin which uses a second highlight colour.

The colours are as follows:

  • Washed with Citadel Agrax Earthshade and highlighted with basecolour
    • Coats/uniforms – VMC German Fieldgrey WWII
    • Wood/leather – VMC Flat Brown
    • Waterbottle/blankets – VMC German Camo Medium Brown
    • Bags/Pouches – VMC German Camo Beige WWII
    • Helmets/Gas Mask Boxes – VMC German Camo Dark Green
    • Panzerfausts – Vallejo Surface Primer German Dark Yellow
    • Cloth Helmet Cover – VGC Heavy Bluegrey
  • Washed with Citadel Agrax Earthshade – no highlights
    • Guns – VGA Gunmetal
    • Other metallic objects – S75 Black Metal
    • Webbing – VMC Black
    • Boots bottom – VMC Dark Rust
    • Boots top – VMC German Camo Medium Brown
  • Skin
    • Basecoat – Pro Acryl Shadow Flesh
    • Wash – Citadel Reikland Fleshshade
    • Highlight 1 – Pro Acryl Shadow Flesh
    • Highlight 2 – 50/50 Pro Acryl Shadow Flesh/AK Beige Red
    • Pick out the nose – Citadel Carroburg Crimson
  • Bases
    • Texture paint – AK Muddy Ground
    • Flock – some mix of foams and static grass I made ages ago
    • Snow flock – Citadel Snow
    • Rim – S75 Ardennes Green (Seemed appropriate!)

This scheme is very quick, I just lay down the basecoats (including the skin), then wash the whole model (Agrax for everything apart from the skin, Reikland Fleshade for the skin – doesn’t matter if they bleed a bit into each other), then highlight.

I’m happy with the way they look, the basing works well for me as I didn’t want to go full snow but rather light snow/frost. I’m also happy with the speed at which I can paint them, these were done in an afternoon/evening with some distractions.

Anyhow this was a rather long post, but I hope it was enjoyable!

Normandy Reinforcements

Bolt Action, Chain of Command

I’ve had a rather unplanned dip back into WW2 wargaming these last few weeks, and it’s resulted in quite a bit of model painting and building. This all started when I read Cryptonomicon by Neal Stephenson, one of those books I’d always meant to read, which sets half of its action in the WW2 years. This made me look into the new edition of Bolt Action which had been released since I last dipped my toes in the period, and also look into the other much talked about game for the era which is Chain of Command. Turns out Chain of Command had also just released its second edition, and having seen the game played on youtube in the past I was sufficiently interested to pick up a PDF of the rules from the publisher and start reading.

After reading the rules, I decided I really liked the look of Chain of Command (CoC) and I wanted to play it. Now CoC bases its armies on historical formations rather than the more Warhammer-like unit customisation Bolt Action offers. In Bolt Action, squads/sections have a minimum size, and extra models and special weapons are purchased to fill them out. The job of the list builder is to build a army that is functional and fits into the points limit. This often means under strength sections, as extra models get shaved off to upgrade another section to get an extra LMG etc. In CoC the platoon you select is as per historical records and there is little to no customisation available, so sections are full-strength, special weapons are as per historical kit out etc. This meant my Bolt Action armies were not quite playable in CoC and required a few more models to be painted to get there.

I started working on getting two of my armies up to scratch: my 2ème DB (i.e. my Free French Armoured Division), which needed (and still needs I’m not quite done!) quite a few more models to bring it up to a full strength Armoured Infantry Platoon, and my late war Germans who only needed a handful of models to make them into a Panzergrenadier platoon. I’m planning on making my North Africa forces CoC compliant but that requires a fair bit more work as they’re much smaller for now.

First up, my Free French needed a lot more officers (very important in CoC), so I picked up the Warlord Games US Army Platoon Commanders set which has the four models you see above, cast in their “Warlord Resin”. The models were all one piece and quite easy to clean up. The detail on them was quite nice and they were easy to paint (in my usual slightly speedy manner employed for historical models).

I also added a Browning .30cal team, also from Warlord (this one a metal set), and I also painted the remaining crew member of the Perry Miniatures mortar team I painted as part of my first batch of models for the army all the way back in 2022! Bolt Action tends to default to 3 crew for a lot of weapons (presumably for game balance), while CoC sticks to historical numbers, so the mortar should have 5 crew all up – which means I still need to make another crew at some stage!

I still need a few more models to get the army game ready, namely some regular infantry as well as a second Browning team. I’ll work on them soon so I can play a game!

As mentioned above I also painted a few more Germans to make that army ready to play, which meant painting two more MG42 gunners. I also painted up a medic model I had, this one not required by the game but is an available support option and I liked the model!

Finally, CoC is a pretty token intensive game, and I’ve been in a token-making mood recently (I made a whole batch of custom tokens for Netrunner recently and that kicked off something in me!) so I started making tokens for the game. Most of those aren’t ready to show so I’ll leave them for another post, but what I do have ready is what are called Patrol Markers and Jump-off Points in the game. These are used for a pre-game mini-game that determines the starting positions of both armies.

The patrol markers tend to be bigger (I went for 60mm diameter) and the jump-off points smaller (I went for 30mm). The patrol markers need to be able to be marked as locked so I made them double-sided with a locked side and an unlocked side. The translations are all mine so hopefully they’re right (I’m confident about the French one at least!).

These are made by 3D printing simple discs and (2D!) printing the designs on some self-adhesive photo paper. I made the designs in Affinity Designer (an Adobe Illustrator alternative that I heartily recommend). The only parts I didn’t make are the map of France (SVG from https://simplemaps.com/svg/country/fr) and the Airborne (From Wikimedia commons https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:British_Airborne_Units.svg). I made a set for all of my armies as I was enjoying myself quite a bit making these. Left to to right, top to bottom: Soviets (I don’t have any of these but my regular opponent does!), 8th Army, Afrika Korps, Germany, 2ème DB, British Airborne.

I look forward to giving the game a go, it looks like a really nice way to play the period. I’ve organised to have my interested in WW2 friends to come over for a game in the next month or so, so I’ll be doing some preparations for that until then. I’ll most likely be playing a practice game by myself beforehand to get across the rules properly so might turn that into a battle report for the blog.