Basing – Lair of the Lagomorph

Blogomorph no.4

In which we discover what holidays really are for, I attempt to take over the galaxy, and we observe some dwarven progress.

Holiday Snaps

My hobby time this week has been severely impacted by some very nice family holidays up in Broome, all the way at the north of Western Australia (~1700kms as the crow flies from Perth, 2200 if driving). Broome is a really nice small town which is a somewhat renowned tourist spot, if you go in the right season (May to October).

Beyond providing a great excuse for my lack of progress this week, the reason I bring this up is because, Broome has this amazing red dirt all through it, much darker than the red dirt we get around Perth. If you’re a follower of the blog you know I love a red dirt base (see amongst others: Chaos Guy from last week, my Orcs and Goblins army), and Broome offers some great inspiration for those really saturated red dirt bases.

I personally really like the look of those dark rocks peeking out of the red dirt, and that is what I’m going for with the bases on that chaos model I showed in the last post. Hopefully you can find some basing ideas out of these photos so I can tell myself the weird looks I got from other tourists as I took photos of dirt were worth it.

As a bonus here is some inspiration for those of you that enjoy broken rock bases!

Imperial Ambitions

Barely back from holidays we made use of a long weekend here to play the longest game of them all: Twilight Imperium 4 (I know, there’s plenty of longer games — see this crazed attempt!, but this is as long as I’m willing to go!).

*And this is just the component for 5 players! We usually play with 6, and the game goes up to 8 players!*

For those of you not in the know, Twilight Imperium 4 is a game of galactic conquest/politics/trade where all the players attempt to become the ones that rule the galaxy. They do this by amassing victory points which can be obtained in a variety of ways, mostly dictated by cards that get revealed as the game goes on. This generally means you can’t really know ahead of time how you’ll need to contort your game plan to fit the objectives. Add to that the limitation that you can generally only score one one of these objectives per turn (you can also score secret objectives but I won’t go into too much detail), and you end up being dragged pillar to post from turn to turn, being forced to shatter alliances or forge new bonds with old enemies as you try to accomplish objectives. This makes the game very political and you need to spend a lot of time discussing options with other players, smoothing over perceived slights, allying against a more powerful opponent, or simply trading commodities to make a bit of money. The game is extremely fun and tense, as you constantly need to be keeping an eye on what is going on around you while formulating your own plan.

*Close to the end of the game, the board is packed!*

As a result of all this, the game is long, we generally finish in 10ish hours so a solid day’s gaming. This was a five-player affair, and it took us close to 13 hours (including a dinner break). Why the extra time? Well in this game we ended up with two players (pink and blue) in a position to win in the next turn, so the rest of us (yellow, red, black) formulated a complex plan to try to stop them. This effectively meant throwing all our forces against these two players to try and drag the game into an extra turn which would see us get into a position to win ourselves.

We succeeded in dragging the galaxy into bloody war (extending the game into roughly two more hours of game time in the process!), and effectively crushed the fleets of both players, but in the end it was too little too late, both players cleverly hanging on to or aiming for objectives they could score even when the table turned against them. The game has an initiative system each turn which dictates the order turns are played and points are scored. The pink player (my lovely wife) managed to both hold on to a safe objective and pick an early turn order so she was able to score out before the blue player could score his. The game is brutal this way, first to score wins.

For three of the five of us it was the first time playing the first expansion of the game, Prophecy of Kings. This adds some more mechanics to the game which I really enjoyed, including amongst other things rewarding exploration and also adding some faction goals that let you unlock some powerful abilities.

On the Painting Table

As you might expect from all this activity, I didn’t get much painting done this week. I did manage to get my batch of Longbeards to the wash stage so I should be able to get them finished soon.

Making Bases for Midgard Heroic Battles

Midgard Heroic Battles

I’ve been really enjoying Midgard Heroic Battles as you might have been able to tell from my last few posts. While I’ve been working on my Epic scale Punic War armies specifically for the game, I’ve really enjoyed the opportunity it has given me to break out some older models I’ve had painted for a long time that have not hit the gaming table in almost just as long. So far these models have mostly been Lord of the Rings/Middle Earth models, as they fit nicely in the War of the Ring movement trays that work quite well for Midgard. I’ve been wanting to use the rules to play with Warhammer models and historical models however, and those do not (generally) work with the War of the Ring trays.

The opportunity to remedy this problem came in an unusual form, when a large frame containing a cool fantasy map came off the wall and smashed itself on the ground. The frame itself was wrecked, and so was the glass, but the MDF backing on it was mostly OK (the map also survived unscathed!). This meant I had a mostly nice sheet of 60x90cm 3mm MDF on my hands, and realised it would be a good solution to my Midgard basing issue.

Midgard requires a common frontage for all units, but is pretty flexible on depth for models of greater size. This frontage is recommended to be 12cm for 28mm scale miniatures (you can change this, one of the really cool things that makes the game scale agnostic – for example my Punic Wars models are on 8cm bases), and the default depth is half the frontage. Most infantry units should fit on 12x6cm bases, while units with larger footprints should increase the depth (e.g. calvalry might be on 12x10cm, large monsters on 12x12cm etc.).

The good news for me is that 60 is nicely divisible by 12 and 90 by six, so I was able to plot a 12x6cm grid on my frame backing. I of course wasn’t able to fully utilise the board, as the hardware is anchored there (not that strongly clearly, you can see bottom left the spot where the other loop broke off leading to my frame mishap in the first place!). I used the marked bases with hardware on them to extend the 6cm depth of some bases to 10cm. In other areas you can see where I turned four 12×6 bases into three 12×8, and where I combined 2 12×6 bases into one 12×12 base. This gave me a nice spread off sizes, and more bases (I hope) than I could ever use!

I usually use a jigsaw for MDF, but these needed to be pretty straight cuts and I didn’t think I could manage them freehand with the jigsaw. I went back and forth considering a few other methods for cutting these, but I ended up settling on using a long metal ruler and a box cutter. I read online that you can cut through 3mm MDF most of the way with the cutter, then snap the board along the cut, much like you would with plasticard. That worked pretty well, giving mostly clean edges apart from the snapped section. That was easy enough to trim away though so in general I think this is a pretty good method. Note that MDF dust is nasty stuff so wear a mask whenever cutting or sanding it – have a look at Guru Pig’s thoughtful comment below for more detail. Left-to-right above you can see the stacks of 12-10-8-6cm deep bases.

I glued sand on the bases and painted them with a series of dry brushes of successively lighter brown tones (raw umber, yellow ochre, yellow ochre with a touch of white), followed by some light flocking with green and dry static grass around the rims where model bases would most likely not sit. Painting that many was a bit tedious I have to say, but the results are hopefully worth it! Let’s take a look at them in action.

In the photo above we have on the left the 12x8cm base – good for larger infantry such as these dryads, on the right the 12x6cm regular infantry tray, which comfortably fits eight 25mm square based infantry.

Left is the 12x12cm tray, big enough to fit this Verminlord, and right is the 12x10cm tray, good for cavalry models.

I painted and flocked the trays so they wouldn’t look too out of place on either of the mats I use for gaming the most, i.e. the green field and the desert you see in the photo above.

The Lord of the Rings miniatures also work fine on these, the cavalry bases with four models look better than the two you get on the War of the Rings bases.

Overall, these bases are pretty plain, and I think for armies that I build specifically for Midgard I’d like to use the opportunity to make proper scenic bases. These however have the advantage of being very flexible and letting me field a lot of existing armies in fun games of Midgard. I’m very much looking forward to that.

Endor bases

Star Wars Legion

I decided early on that if I was to go imperial forces, I’d want to have the bases themed around Endor. So I looked up a few images if the California redwood forests to get some references.

Photo by Allie Caulfield https://www.flickr.com/photos/28577026@N02/6845261959

The photo above really shows the colours I was interested in including: a variety of greens for live vegetation and the red/orange/brown of the dried needles littered all over the ground.

For the greenery I was well equipped, with a variety of flocks at my disposal, but I had nothing for the needles, so I decided to experiment.

In Western Australia we have a very abundant variety of eucalyptus called Jarrah which has a fairly distinctive red wood. I wondered if sawdust from this wood would be suitable for what I was after. The wood is used a lot on construction and furniture making here and I have offcuts on hand ready to sacrifice for a good cause.

On went the dust mask (don’t breathe this in is good advice for any sanding) and out came the sander. The sander has a handy collection box at the back which made getting enough sawdust quick.

The result is this very fine power which is bang on colour wise I think. And there’s plenty more where that came from (if you live around here).

Onto basing!

I started the bases with a textured paint I made from Vallejo White Ground Texture and a mix of inks, ratio of roughly one of the palette divet’s worth of texture, to 6 drops black ink, 6 drops red ink, 6 drops green ink, and 2 drops yellow ink.

I pressed down some sticks while the paste was still wet

I covered all of the base in watered down mod podge, then successively sprinkled small slate, Woodland Scenics light green coarse turf, darker green medium turf (no idea who makes it, had it for years), Woodland Scenics burnt grass fine turf, Woodland Scenics green grass fine turf and finally an all over coating of the jarrah sawdust

And here’s the good camera photo after a coat of Mig matt varnish.

I don’t always varnish my models, but I wanted to anchor down the relatively lightly glued down basing materials. Unfortunately it darkened down the sawdust quite a bit so it lost some of its red effect. On the models where more sawdust got added it retained quite a bit of the red however so that’s a lesson learned, more is better in this case!

Overall I’m very happy with how these bases turned out, I think they managed to look pretty natural and the effect is close to what I was chasing.